Oceans and Seas

the work of author Michael Krieger

On Patrol: Pt. 12 – Night on the Equator

Posted by on Sep 13, 2019

On Patrol: Pt. 12 – Night on the Equator

Something Different

An hour later, dinner is served to seven of us in the officers’ mess. The mee soto, noodles and vegetables in a spicy chicken broth, is great. The deep-fried chili chicken is incredible. I have never tasted chicken cooked this way, and I am very impressed. The flavors of the chicken and Asian spices stand out even in the fiery heat of the chilies. The dinner equals what I would expect from an expensive Singapore restaurant.

Night on the equator comes quickly, a curtain that suddenly falls, immediately changing light to darkness. The serenity and well-being previously provided by vision is replaced by something different, more uncertain and a bit threatening.

Vessels lie in the Eastern Anchorage. Downtown Singapore is in the background

Vessels lie in the Eastern Anchorage. Downtown Singapore is in the background

Investigating

At eighteen hundred hours, 6:00 p.m., eight and a half miles east of Horsburgh Light, I hear an announcement that we’re going to investigate a fishing boat ahead, just off the shipping lanes. Over the speaker, muffled, “Okay, investigating contact…fifty-five.” Then, “Again, say again.” “Told COC that we are investigating a possible SMS.”

“Can you tell if it’s fishing or just lying to?” I ask the captain.

“When we get nearer, we will use the FOD [the mast-mounted infrared camera] to take a scan,” he tells me. “Most importantly, we will want to know whether she is a Singapore-registered vessel.” “Port 15,” he orders the helmsman.

Sergeants with body armor, life jackets, and helmets stand on each wing of the bridge. Both are armed with M16s.

We idle up to and around the vessel, observing apparently nothing suspicious. Finally, “OK, stand down.” Over the speaker come muffled voices, sometimes in Malay. The vessel is an Indonesian stern trawler, about sixty feet long. Both it and we go on our way.

Singapore Strait at night.

Singapore Strait at night.

Mass of Lights

We are heading west now after having loitered a few miles from Horsburgh Light until slightly past 1900. As captain of the Unity, Major Wong does not stand watches, but since the patrol is mainly in heavily traveled shipping lanes, he is on the bridge much of the time, especially at night. He looks out over a bewildering panoply of large and small lights in front and on each side of us, different configurations in a multitude of colors. His experience allows him to easily sort out this mélange, but to me the mass of lights is almost incomprehensible. I can’t tell where we are or even, really, what direction we’re heading. So I ask him.

“We are heading 260, heading west,” he tells me. “On the right, north, is Changi. Between it and us we can see all those anchor (alpha) lights.”

Major Wong is referring to the anchor lights of vessels in the Eastern Anchorage, off the southeast end of the island. Changi is also at the southeastern tip of Singapore (island). The international airport is there, as well as a naval base and military airfield. Downtown Singapore is perhaps a dozen miles ahead, and the lights of its skyscrapers are not yet visible through the haze. South are the lights of some big resorts on the north tip on Bintan Island.

NEXT >>

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On Patrol: Pt. 8 – The Alarm

On Patrol: Pt. 8 – The Alarm

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On Patrol: Pt. 7 – Pirates

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On Patrol: Pt. 11 – Mess Hall

Posted by on Sep 9, 2019

On Patrol: Pt. 11 – Mess Hall

Darkness Falls

Back on the bridge. It is 1600, four in the afternoon, and a change of watch takes place. Those on duty brief their relief with pertinent information. We are approaching Horsburgh Light, a concrete tower on a shoal with a flashing beacon that separates Singapore Strait from the South China Sea to the east. We pass the light and come to 110 degrees, moving slowly out of the shipping lanes and into shallower water where, as soon as darkness falls, just a few hours off, we will begin checking fishing boats and any other craft that could be harboring pirates. Open seas begin here. The wind has picked up a little. A nice breeze, really, and a sea state that has increased to a three, from the east, hitting us abeam and causing us to roll slightly. Then as we turn back to the east, sheets of spray break over the bow.

Sargent Chong (head cook)

Sergeant Chong, the head cook, specializes in delicious, spicy food.

Delicious Smell of Cooking

A big gray, rusty bulker passes us heading west. To the east two tankers and another freighter are headed in the same direction. And from the west, still a long way off, a couple of small tankers are moving slowly, apparently to the east. This is a very peaceful part of the patrol—and a little boring. When a delicious smell of cooking food wafts up the ladder from the galley, I follow it down to its source.

The stainless steel galley would fit on half of a ping pong table. Strapped to a high shelf, a radio blares Singapore rock, which seems to go with the movements of the galley as it pitches to and fro along with the rest of the ship. First Sergeant Chong Yong Kat, angular, with a shy, self-effacing smile, is in short pants, stirring a kettle. His assistant, Corporal Clarence Foo, chops onions…

“Do you ever get seasick?” I ask them.

“No, sir,” Clarence replies, “we have already got used to it.”

“Well, if anybody is going to get seasick, I think it would be you guys. So what are you cooking? It smells fantastic.”

“Cooking some Muslim food—Asian Muslim food. It’s a Asian delight, lah,” Chong answers, laughing. Then in an aside to Clarence, “Eh, what do you call it?”

‘The name of the dish is called, uh, mee soto,” Clarence tells me.

Chong is stirring something that looks like curry. I ask him if it is, and he says no, it’s coriander powder. “So what are you going to do with the coriander? Where is it going?”  I ask him.

“I am going to press it with the other” (Clarence has been chopping chilies, ginger, and garlic) “and make it into a paste. Then after that I will add it to the chicken. Then we fry it up, and the aroma, the fragrance, is all inside there.”

Earlier I had seen a huge commercial vat with six solid inches of red-hot chilies in the bottom. “Did all those chilies go in there?” I ask Chong.

“Some, some,” he answers, with his shy, don’t-hit-me-laugh. “The Malays call this lompok,” he adds. That translates as chili chicken.

“That looks like it’s going to be really spicy,” I tell him. “Does everyone onboard like spicy food?”

“Most, most,” he answers.

Wong, a young electrical tech, is passing the galley. He sticks his head in and adds, “Yeah, but some would like it more spicy—extra spicy.” He laughs and goes on his way.

 

NEXT >>

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On Patrol: Pt. 8 – The Alarm

On Patrol: Pt. 8 – The Alarm

Engine Room We are barely moving through the water and suddenly an alarm goes off on the bridge. Major Wong speaks with Sergeant Koh, the chief engineer, explains that enough bypass gas and some from hot, oily surfaces have collected to set off an engine room alarm....

On Patrol: Pt. 7 – Pirates

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On Patrol: Pt. 1 – Nine Crew

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On Patrol: Pt. 10 – Endurance, Tolerance, Patience

Posted by on Aug 30, 2019

On Patrol: Pt. 10 – Endurance, Tolerance, Patience

Only Three Female Sailors

“What about your father? Is he alive?”

“Yeah, he’s around. My dad, until now, still can’t believe what I’m doing. He’s too shocked.”

“Ah. What about being one of the only three women on the ship? Is that good or not so good?”

“It’s good, but… uh… it’s just something very different, we being the minority among the guys. It gives you a very different feeling. But you don’t feel anything bad, because they treat you the same.”

“I would think that with just the three of you, you might get a little bit closer than if there were a lot of of women onboard. With just three of you, you have to depend on each other.”

Sergeant Suganthi

“Yeah. Sometimes we wish that there were more ladies onboard. Actually, there were, there were seven when I came onboard here. Then one by one they decreased and we are left with three.”

“Does it make it more difficult… with three, you know everything about each other. And maybe you don’t get along with one or the other so well? I mean, I’m not saying you don’t get along with one another. I’m just speaking hypothetically. When there are only three, what are the problems you face?”

“As you said, when there’s only three, we have to depend on each other. So at times when we need the support of the other two and they are not there, or when you speak up, you know, they don’t seem to understand, then probably frustration and irritants [occur], because it’s like there’s nobody you can turn to. You can turn to other women, other friends, close friends or yours from other ships, but [if they are not in the navy] they will never understand the life. That’s one thing.”

Personal Life

“What about your friends outside the navy, those that you went to school with? Does this  make you different from them? Do they look at you differently?”

“For one thing, we will just compare the 8-5 job. First of all, the environment is different. They’ve got the freedom. They can do whatever they want. We are restricted in a way. Because we went navy, we’ve got to follow certain rules and regulations. And of course I’ve worked outside before joining the navy. And you know, sometimes, [like] when you are on the way to work, in the bus, you look at the other ladies. It [would be] nice to be like them, dressed up and, you know, how nice.”

Endurance, Tolerance, Patience

“So they are all dressed up and you’ve got your navy uniform on?”

“It’s not even that. When I come to work here, I do my job and I get all sweaty and who cares about makeup or how I look, you know? Whereas, I think back, I used to be so concerned, touching up at 10:00, at 12:00, when I [was working] outside. Furthermore I have learned a lot of endurance in this job, tolerance, patience. You know, I look at them when they complain about working overtime for just five to ten minutes. I do think, ok, at least I wouldn’t be complaining anymore given such situations.”

“Do you still live at home with your mother?”

“Yes, I live with my family.”

“How long does it take you to get to work?”

“If I have to reach here at 7:00, I have to leave my house at about 6:15—forty five minutes.”

“That’s not too bad.”

“Yeah, it’s not too bad, because I live on the west side, and this is also somewhere around there. Luckily for me, traveling is not so bad.”

“Do you have any desire to get an apartment to share with another girl or another woman? Or do you really enjoy staying at home?”

“If by myself, is it? No.”

“No?”

“I think that is one thing about the culture here. Although there are a minority [who], after a certain age, move on to live on their own, most of them live with their families until they get married. As for me, I can’t imagine,” she laughs, “spending everything on me.”

“I think you are smart.”

NEXT >>

More from “On Patrol”

On Patrol: Pt. 8 – The Alarm

On Patrol: Pt. 8 – The Alarm

Engine Room We are barely moving through the water and suddenly an alarm goes off on the bridge. Major Wong speaks with Sergeant Koh, the chief engineer, explains that enough bypass gas and some from hot, oily surfaces have collected to set off an engine room alarm....

On Patrol: Pt. 7 – Pirates

On Patrol: Pt. 7 – Pirates

Heart Goes Out P.J. met his wife, Elaine, an associate engineer working for a semiconductor manufacturer, in an internet chat room. They have been married only a short time and as yet have no children. Both are computer buffs, and its possible P.J. may leave the navy...

On Patrol: Pt. 6 – Opportunity

On Patrol: Pt. 6 – Opportunity

Limbs Fly Back on the main deck we go out, forward, next to the 76mm gun. I am instructed not to step between the anchor chains running from the chain locker through chocks to the Unity’s anchors. If accidentally the anchor windlass lock released, I might watch a few...

On Patrol: Pt. 5 – Hijacked

On Patrol: Pt. 5 – Hijacked

Ransom On February 9, 2003, an Indonesian tugboat, the Sing Sing Mariner, was towing a barge near Bintan Island. Unnoticed by the men on the tug, armed pirates boarded the barge and kidnapped its five-man crew, to hold them for ransom. The tug continued to sail until...

On Patrol: Pt. 4 – Pirate Incubators

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On Patrol: Pt. 3 – Unused to Violence

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On Patrol: Pt. 2 – Only Miles Away

On Patrol: Pt. 2 – Only Miles Away

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On Patrol: Pt. 1 – Nine Crew

On Patrol: Pt. 1 – Nine Crew

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On Patrol: Pt. 9 – Machine Guns

Posted by on Aug 23, 2019

On Patrol: Pt. 9 – Machine Guns

Hodgepodge

Kenis and Sprig leave to go back to work. Kenis appears to be mature and very responsible. Later, I see her manning one of the machine guns on the bridge wing. Spring’s duty station is at the radar repeater on the bridge, where she continually examines and evaluates the complex hodgepodge of light pips in front of her, representing ships, islands, reefs, and small boats in the nearby waters. On an almost minute-by-minute basis she updates the officer of the watch.

tea time

The three women of the Unity’s crew take a break for a cup of tea.

Sergeant Suganthi still has a few minutes before she has to return to her duty station in the engine room, so I ask her about herself. She is one of perhaps a half-dozen sailors of Indian extraction onboard the Unity.

“The crew likes to call me Su,” She says. Then, with a laugh, “Or they have given me a Chinese name; they call me Ah Su.”

Su appears reserved and demure. “Why did you decide to go into the navy.” I ask her. “You seem so quiet.”

Rejected

“It’s not the first time someone is telling me that,” she replies. “People are usually taken aback, even my relatives and my primary school friends, when I tell them that I have joined the navy. And I am very happy about it. I needed a job to support myself and my family. So that’s why I did it. I was like trying for the air force, actually. But somehow I got rejected. So my second choice was the navy.”

“Are you married?”

“No, no, no,” she answers quickly.

“And did you grow up and spend your childhood in Singapore?”

“Yeah, my whole life. I grew up and was brought up here all along, yeah.”

“What is the tradition with Indian families, say with girls, in terms of profession? Are there limits on what you can choose, or is that very old-fashioned?”

“There was. In fact, there still is. But I wouldn’t say in Singapore— in India, maybe. If you take Singapore’s culture… Like, for example, my mum. My mum wanted to join the army when she was my age.”

“Really?”

Surprised

“And my uncle’s—my mum’s brothers—they restricted her. They said no, no way you are going to go in the army, because they know how life is there. Because my uncle is in the army also. So they said, no, no, no, a girl shouldn’t go in there, like what you will be going through and what you will need to know. Then when I wanted to join, none of my uncle’s objected. In fact, they were like, I’m so proud of you that you are making this decision—the same uncle’s. It was like times have changed, and everything, even the army, has changed. And people are more open-minded. For one thing, last time [in earlier times] when the girl works in this kind of place, when she’s, like, about to get married, or anything like that, it’s very difficult. Usually last time [there used to be] all arranged marriage. It’s not like love, you know, like our culture. People [then] would usually think twice when they ask a girl [for her] hand. They will [think], like, this girl, she wouldn’t be the good kind—that sort of thinking. Now things have changed. But you will be surprised, people still do think twice, yeah.”

 

NEXT >>

 

More from “On Patrol”

On Patrol: Pt. 8 – The Alarm

On Patrol: Pt. 8 – The Alarm

Engine Room We are barely moving through the water and suddenly an alarm goes off on the bridge. Major Wong speaks with Sergeant Koh, the chief engineer, explains that enough bypass gas and some from hot, oily surfaces have collected to set off an engine room alarm....

On Patrol: Pt. 7 – Pirates

On Patrol: Pt. 7 – Pirates

Heart Goes Out P.J. met his wife, Elaine, an associate engineer working for a semiconductor manufacturer, in an internet chat room. They have been married only a short time and as yet have no children. Both are computer buffs, and its possible P.J. may leave the navy...

On Patrol: Pt. 6 – Opportunity

On Patrol: Pt. 6 – Opportunity

Limbs Fly Back on the main deck we go out, forward, next to the 76mm gun. I am instructed not to step between the anchor chains running from the chain locker through chocks to the Unity’s anchors. If accidentally the anchor windlass lock released, I might watch a few...

On Patrol: Pt. 5 – Hijacked

On Patrol: Pt. 5 – Hijacked

Ransom On February 9, 2003, an Indonesian tugboat, the Sing Sing Mariner, was towing a barge near Bintan Island. Unnoticed by the men on the tug, armed pirates boarded the barge and kidnapped its five-man crew, to hold them for ransom. The tug continued to sail until...

On Patrol: Pt. 4 – Pirate Incubators

On Patrol: Pt. 4 – Pirate Incubators

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On Patrol: Pt. 3 – Unused to Violence

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On Patrol: Pt. 2 – Only Miles Away

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On Patrol: Pt. 1 – Nine Crew

On Patrol: Pt. 1 – Nine Crew

Taus Navy Base, Republic of Signapore Slowly the RSS Unity backs out of her berth into the waterway, passing sister patrol vessels and three corvettes bristling with guns and missiles at an adjacent dock. P. J. Lau, the exec, is at the conn. “Starboard 15,” he orders...

Read More

On Patrol: Pt. 8 – The Alarm

Posted by on Aug 16, 2019

On Patrol: Pt. 8 – The Alarm

Engine Room

We are barely moving through the water and suddenly an alarm goes off on the bridge. Major Wong speaks with Sergeant Koh, the chief engineer, explains that enough bypass gas and some from hot, oily surfaces have collected to set off an engine room alarm. According to Koh, when we are idling and the wind is blowing a certain direction, or maybe not blowing at all, the engine room ventilation system doesn’t totally rid the space of smoke. After an auxiliary blower is turned on, the alarm stops.

Fishin’

Having found nothing suspicious in the sampans, we head off, leaving the little boats rocking in our wake. It seems incredible that fishing is allowed in the shipping lanes, but it is. Even more incredible to me is that anyone would want to fish in the shipping lanes while dodging supertankers.

Gossip

The three women of the Unity’s crew take a break for a cup of tea.

Passing the crew’s multipurpose room, I come across the ship’s three female crew members. This is too good an opportunity to pass up. They are sitting and drinking tea while they chat about a girl they know. Of course they stop when I come in, but I urge them—plead with them, actually—to continue. Knowing that I don’t know and will never meet the subject of their conversation, they do.

Spring Dai, a sprightly twenty-two year old radar tech, tells me, “I’ve a friend of mine, her name is Gina. She has a boyfriend. Recently we met her outside. And the boy was really treating her badly. I take her out to make her feel better, and she’s crying to me every day.”

Sergent Kenis Tan seems somewhat older and more experienced. “How come, ah?” she asks.

Sprig; “Don’t know, lah.* Also don’t know how [to help her].

Kenis: “You mean she want to be with him but he don’t want?”

Spring: “You know, lah. It’s just love, lah. Sometimes love…you know…cannot see.”

Kenis: “How long has that? How long have they been together?”

Spring: “They’ve been together for one year plus already.”

Sergeant Suganthi, a bright engineer, now enters the conversation. “Does she confide everything, you know?”

Spring: “She told me what they went through. Actually because they’re…”

Kenis, sipping her tea: “It’s not courtship already, what? Timing shouldn’t be a problem, not an issue anymore.”

Spring: “I’m also not sure. Maybe the guy, you know, find someone new, someone different to love, that’s why he wants to get rid of her, whatever. Also don’t know why.”

Su: “They’re planning to ROM** this year?”

Kenis: “Is it? They wanted to ROM?”

Spring, a little bitterly: “They went to ROM already.”

Kenis: “Oh my god.”

Spring: “Imagine so hurting, you know. If me, I will cry.”

Kenis: “No wonder she didn’t look very happy that day, at the chalet.”

Spring: “Yeah, that’s why.”

Su: “She didn’t play with us long.”

Spring: “She always never look happy, also.”

Su: “Yeah. I cannot understand her at all. She…. Maybe that’s why.” They laugh with a bit of guilt.

Spring: “Maybe the guy want to find a new one.”

Kenis: “Okay, lah, she’s overall a quite nice girl, lah.”

The three women simultaneously: “Yeah, yeah.”

Mike: “And you know what guys are like.”

All of us laugh.

 

*The expression “lah” is peppered throughout Singaporean’s conversation to emphasize whatever they are saying.

**ROM is the abbreviation for Registry of Marriage. It also means the act of registering to marry, which is essentially a proposal of marriage.

NEXT >>

More from “On Patrol”

On Patrol: Pt. 8 – The Alarm

On Patrol: Pt. 8 – The Alarm

Engine Room We are barely moving through the water and suddenly an alarm goes off on the bridge. Major Wong speaks with Sergeant Koh, the chief engineer, explains that enough bypass gas and some from hot, oily surfaces have collected to set off an engine room alarm....

On Patrol: Pt. 7 – Pirates

On Patrol: Pt. 7 – Pirates

Heart Goes Out P.J. met his wife, Elaine, an associate engineer working for a semiconductor manufacturer, in an internet chat room. They have been married only a short time and as yet have no children. Both are computer buffs, and its possible P.J. may leave the navy...

On Patrol: Pt. 6 – Opportunity

On Patrol: Pt. 6 – Opportunity

Limbs Fly Back on the main deck we go out, forward, next to the 76mm gun. I am instructed not to step between the anchor chains running from the chain locker through chocks to the Unity’s anchors. If accidentally the anchor windlass lock released, I might watch a few...

On Patrol: Pt. 5 – Hijacked

On Patrol: Pt. 5 – Hijacked

Ransom On February 9, 2003, an Indonesian tugboat, the Sing Sing Mariner, was towing a barge near Bintan Island. Unnoticed by the men on the tug, armed pirates boarded the barge and kidnapped its five-man crew, to hold them for ransom. The tug continued to sail until...

On Patrol: Pt. 4 – Pirate Incubators

On Patrol: Pt. 4 – Pirate Incubators

Tight Quarters The rear of the cramped bridge space is taken up with a series of consoles in front of a bench seat. Four screens provide diagnostic information on all the ship’s systems, including engine functions. All together a half dozen people working from the...

On Patrol: Pt. 3 – Unused to Violence

On Patrol: Pt. 3 – Unused to Violence

Terrorism In 2002 a videotape found in an al-Qaeda hideout in Afghanistan led authorities in Singapore to arrest thirteen members of Jamaah Islamiyah, an Asian al-Qaeda affiliate, who were planning to place bombs at a bus stop and mass-transit station frequented by...

On Patrol: Pt. 2 – Only Miles Away

On Patrol: Pt. 2 – Only Miles Away

New Course The Unity enters the main shipping channel, and as we pass Raffles Light, named after Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, who “founded” the city in 1829 for the British East India Company, she takes a new course, heading east northeast. She joins the shipping lane...

On Patrol: Pt. 1 – Nine Crew

On Patrol: Pt. 1 – Nine Crew

Taus Navy Base, Republic of Signapore Slowly the RSS Unity backs out of her berth into the waterway, passing sister patrol vessels and three corvettes bristling with guns and missiles at an adjacent dock. P. J. Lau, the exec, is at the conn. “Starboard 15,” he orders...

Read More

On Patrol: Pt. 7 – Pirates

Posted by on Aug 9, 2019

On Patrol: Pt. 7 – Pirates

Heart Goes Out

P.J. met his wife, Elaine, an associate engineer working for a semiconductor manufacturer, in an internet chat room. They have been married only a short time and as yet have no children. Both are computer buffs, and its possible P.J. may leave the navy to go into the computer field. My heart goes out to the P.J.’s of the world, the underdogs who continually have to prove themselves. Some of them have far more grit and desire to succeed than many of the natural leaders.

P.J. tells me about some of the pirates’ methods of attack. “Around Bintan,” he says, of the island directly south of our position, “there are a lot of areas without much development. They are not well lit and (at night) when the sampans come, they are darkened, no lights on them. So you can’t easily see that, for instance, here are two sampans coming toward you.”

Limited Assets

His accounts suggests why most attacks take place at night. “Does the Indonesian navy patrol these areas?” I ask. “They do, but if you look at the Indonesian archipelago, it’s pretty big, and their navy has limited assets. So when they deploy them, sometimes they may not be at the right place at the right time. Then, they (the pirates) have lookouts for patrols and watch and wait for them to go by.”

“Do some of the pirates now have cellphones and other means of communication?” I ask. “Yes, the pirates’ and the terrorists’ tactics are evolving. The security agencies’ tactics are evolving too. So, what we need to do is to think a few steps ahead of them.”

After having lived in Singapore (though long ago) and after have seen this culture’s emphasis on intellectual ability, I have no doubt that the Singapore military will be able to counter its adversaries’ tactics. In fact, I am told they have already planned for every type of seaborne attack that might be launched against them.

Looking for a Job

Besides the navy, Singapore also has the Police Coast Guard. Well-armed police boats guard every vulnerable area around Singapore, including the huge refinery we passed on Bukum Island. P.J. says that in 1999 he was transferred to this coast guard for a ten-month tour of duty. One night he was on a police boat patrolling inshore near Sebarok Island, just inside Singapore’s territorial boundary at the narrowest point in the channel, where the eastbound and westbound shipping lanes together are less than a mile and a half wide. They got a call from a security guard who had just captured an Indonesian who had swum across the channel. “We went in and got this guy. He was hoping to come here to look for a job, for some way to make some money. These illegal immigrants know that even if they are captured and jailed, at least they have food and shelter.”

“What happens to people like that?” I ask him.

“They are thrown in jail and given maybe five strokes of the cane, then they are repatriated. And after that many of them try and come back again.”

Desperate Act

Swimming a mile and a half across a shipping lane where every few minutes passes a 500,000-ton, 900 ft. long tanker with ten ft. high propellers that in an instant can chop you into fish chum seems like a desperate act indeed.

 

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